Gozo is a peaceful and simple island. Its traditions are rooted firmly in agriculture and fishing, and to this day it specialises in the growing of tomatoes, potatoes, onions, melons, grapes, figs, oranges, and tangerines. It is in fact known as the island where time stood still!
When visiting Gozo, a visit to Xaghra should definitely feature on your itinerary. Xaghra is a large plateau surrounded by various and diverse valleys, the most impressive of which extends between the two ridges of Nadur and Xaghra, leading to one of the most amazing beaches of the Mediterranean. Various springs emanate from the natural water tables existing since the dawn of time on the plateaus; the valleys are green, fertile, and actively cultivated for agricultural purposes.
Walking around in the valleys surrounding Xaghra gives the impression of perpetually walking in a garden. Human habitation has long since impressed itself on the place. Xaghra hosts what is probably the oldest standing temple in the world, witness to the dawn of civilisation and a World Heritage Site - The Ggantija Temples. Also in Xaghra is the still to be studied Brockdoff Circle; a burial site which though scarcely excavated, has already produced some jewels of artefacts of the first traces of the Maltese people.
Legend suggests that visitors to these shores were awed by the spectacle to be enjoyed from Calypso’s point. This name is in fact derived from the local assumption that it was here that Calypso seduced Ulysses when he beached his ship on Ramla below. The magic of the valley and the beauty of the beach below are an uplifting and magical experience.
The Romans have also left their mark on this valley. Ramla beach boasts two Roman remains which still remain unexcavated. These consist of what is believed to have been a roman beach resort spa, along with stone ramparts placed some way out in the water to stop any pirate ship attempting to come to shore. In addition to this, visitors to the valley can also see the remains of a Watch Tower constructed by the British, as part of the fortifications protecting the island from invasion. The entire beach is now an environmentally protected zone, with special care being taken to create the least possible damage through human intervention.
The village square is another jewel in the crown for Xaghra. Not only does it boast various architectural gems, the most impressive of which is the Church dominating the square, but it has also evolved into an arena of human activity. Between the locals and the visitors, the square is always busy. It now boasts various restaurants, bars, pizzeria, a fuel station as well as banks. It is the village square as it traditionally should be. A living experience of what Maltese Village Life is all about!
The Western coast of Gozo features one of the most splendid natural attractions in Malta – the Azure Window. Any Maltese calendar or brochure will have this popular photo of the doorway in the middle of the cliffs, and it has served as background for hundreds of TV and print commercials. The view is spectacular, especially on windy days when huge sea waves crash into this gigantic arch.
This 50-metre-high hole in the cliffs juts out from the deep blue sea in Dwejra, an area which also includes The Inland Sea, the Fungus Rock and the Blue Hole. Under the sea one can admire the continuation of the cliffs with steep dropdowns and immersed caves making the area immensely popular for divers when the sea is calm.
The inland Sea in Dwejra was created millions of years ago when two limestone caves collapsed leaving a big crater-like hole with a shallow lagoon and a small bay called Dwejra Bay. A 100 metre long cave links this lagoon to the sea. Visitors can get on one of the small fishing boats that provide short trips to the Fungus Rock and Azure Window from Dwejra Bay passing through this natural tunnel in the cliffs.
The Blue Hole can be easily seen from land. This too is a magnet for divers featuring deep blue sea in a big crust of rocks submerged just below sea level. In the rocky shore one can notice thousands of fossilised seashells. This means that at some point in time, the whole area was submerged under the sea.
Gozo can be reached by a regular car-ferry from Cirkewwa. The ferry does not operate in very bad weather so check the ferry schedule if you are travelling in Winter.
One-day visitors to Gozo should not rely on public transport as buses usually operate on an hourly schedule and therefore it would not be possible to see all that Gozo has to offer. Finding your way in Gozo usually means driving to Victoria and following the signs as most primary roads pass through the capital.
Information on Xaghra was adapted from an article by Ray Bajada, a resident of Xaghra for the last 20 years, The original article was written for the Xaghra Council. Special thanks to the Xaghra Local Council. Pictures courtesy of the Xaghra Local Council.